A Nebulous Chicken Soup

In New York City in the 90s, the inspiration for the soup guy from Seinfeld was a block from my midtown Manhattan office (yes, he was a real person). I would line up at his kiosk, Soup Kitchen International at lunchtime; it was take-out only and the line usually went down the block. His soups were indescribably good but he was terrifying. We were prepared with cash in hand and our orders memorised before it was our turn; if you slowed down the line for any reason, there was a good chance he would shout “NO SOUP FOR YOU!”, which would be devastating. I love soup.

My homemade chicken vegetable soup is like most of the recipes my Swedish grandmother left me—no measurements and the ingredients are more like suggestions. That’s what I love about soup-everyone can make it their own. (But I would have appreciated a bit more info on mormor’s braided coffee cake)

The Shopping List

As my kitchen has become more relevant during lockdown, I’ve been challenging myself with new and sometimes complicated recipes, but sometimes a simple dish is just what you need. I’ve been making chicken soup for years; it’s the cure for everything and so easy to throw together. So in the spirit of my grandmother, here’s more or less how it goes:

Ingredients: A few staples and the rest is up to you. The basics are chicken, vegetables, herbs and broth. Soba noodles go well if that’s your thing. Pick your vegetables! There is no wrong answer. I always include carrots, celery, onion and garlic as a base, and usually add one or two more: broccoli, asparagus, green beans…whatever you’re in the mood for. Ginger also adds a nice tangy taste. Whatever the vegetables I always try to shop at stores that sell locally produced, organic ingredients. Luckily there is no lack of these in West London.

Measurements: Depends. Do you like a heavier soup?—Add more chicken and vegetables. I always double the garlic in any recipe, so go crazy with whatever you like.

The Broth

The broth is key-you can make your own, and freeze in small containers for future use– I like Ina Garten’s broth recipe. Or, if you have a tiny English freezer like me, buy it, but just make sure it’s the good stuff. You can use chicken broth or bone broth which is rich in amino acids and minerals, (and, is said to promote collagen production, hooray!) What’s the difference? Bone broth is essentially stock, made using the bones while chicken broth is cooked using the meat. Bone broth takes longer to cook, or if you have a good gourmet store nearby, you can let them do the work. (I am all for taking shortcuts where it doesn’t affect the quality). Luckily I have a few great shops near my house in Notting Hill: Daylesford Organic Farmshop, Bens Fruits & Vegetables and Planet Organic.

The Chicken

Count on one breast per person and enough liquid to cover the breasts. I poach the chicken in broth (not water) to add flavour. Add a couple skinless, boneless breasts (and thighs if you want to add dark meat) to a simmering broth and cook for 12-15 minutes, then turn off the heat and check them. If they are not quite done, let them sit in the broth, covered for a few minutes more until they are fully cooked; an instant-read thermometer should read 165º. Remove, (save the broth), let them cool and shred into a bowl.

Putting It All Together

Mince the garlic and chop the vegetables. I usually keep them on the large side, but you can chop them any size you like. Heat a couple tablespoons of olive oil in a dutch oven and start with the onions and garlic, sauteeing until tender, then add the rest of the vegetables and continue to cook for about 8-10 minutes.

Add broth to the vegetables–the amount is up to you. (I like a lot). You can use the reserved broth from the chicken and add more as you like. If you want a heartier soup, add more chicken or veggies.

Stir the shredded chicken into the pot and at the last minute, mix in chopped parsley, and salt and pepper to taste. The parsley is key-I always add it, it adds a nice flavour and also really enhances the look of the soup, so don’t skip it. You can add other herbs as well-thyme and oregano are good. And be careful with the salt if your broth is already salted. Add just a bit at a time until it’s just right; too much can be the ruin of it.