For a 9-year old only-child, living in a foreign country, five months of isolation seemed like a cruel and unusual punishment. There were no playdates, no siblings, no activites, not even a playground to visit. Homeschooling caused major anxiety, and once that ended, boredom set in. We had moved to London only 8 months before the pandemic hit and did not have an easy getaway plan; we were stuck. With a string of carefully mapped out summer travel plans cancelled, our daughter was at her breaking point.
So when the lockdown lifted and the air bridges to Europe opened up, we decided to make a break for it and head to Croatia for some much-needed change of scenery. After checking the virus rates multiple times, off we went. We weren’t worried about Croatia; the rates were low and we were planning to isolate away from everything at a beautiful resort. The journey was our biggest worry, specifically the airplane. My husband had turned the virus into an adjective and dubbed any place or situation he found too crowded or enclosed covidy. An airplane seemed about as covidy as you could get. But armed with our N95 masks and hand sanitizer, we were off.
The Journey
The airport was uneventful. Our pockets were stuffed with hotel confirmations and utility bills, along with our BRP cards to prove we live in the U.K. (despite our U.S. passports) as America is on Europe’s “naughty list”. We were whisked through very short queues and upon boarding the plane, were handed alcohol wipes to wipe down our tray table and arm rests. I held my mask tight to my face for the 2-hour flight and did not order a drink or use the restroom. As soon as we landed and left the airport, we breathed a sigh of relief
The Croatian coast is breathtaking. We flew into Dubrovnik and headed to Sun Gardens, a sprawling resort 11 km from the city. We had opted for a deluxe one-bedroom suite with sea view for plenty of room to lounge. The view from our deck was spectacular. We melted into the place. At only 35% capacity, the resort felt empty. Only two of their restaurants were open, with ample outdoor seating, and all the shops were closed. It was perfect. Not the least bit covidy.
Four days later we were on a plane home. Such is travel in the age of corona. As the rates of the virus steadily rose in Croatia, (apparently due to twenty-something tourists dancing in nightclubs on the other side of the country), we kept close watch on the news reports anticipating that the UK would put Croatia back on the red list. We quickly booked a flight back for Thursday and as anticipated, it was announced that Croatia would be removed from the UK travel bridge as of Saturday morning. Dubrovnik’s rate was almost non-existent, but Split, 230 km north was on an upward trend.
The Old Town
Even with our trip cut short, we were able to experience the beauty of Croatia. A trip into Dubrovnik’s Old Town to explore the ancient 7th century walled city was spectacular. For a fee we climbed up and walked the 2km along the top of the wall with stunning views of the rooftops below that reminded me of Florence. From the Minceta Tower at the top, we could see for miles and it looked like a setting from a storybook. Dubrovnik’s Old Town was the setting for the fictional city of ‘Kings Landing’ in Game of Thrones, a fact of which they are keen to remind visitors.
A Pescetarian’s Delight
Back down from the wall we wandered the ancient roads, popping into small shops and had an incredible meal alongside the bay at the Gradska kavana Arsenal, a charming restaurant established in 1895. It sits near the main square in the heart of the historic district with a view of the old city port and we watched the boats come and go as we dined. It is hard to find bad seafood in Dubrovnik as most of what you order was fished from the sea hours earlier. We usually ordered the daily catch, and had tuna and mussels, sea bass and fish stew, shared fish grill platters and plates and plates of oysters.
There’s Always Time for Shopping
Traveling with an only-child requires razor sharp negotiating skills. We rarely all want to do the same thing and given the choice, my daughter would spend 8 hours in the pool, diving for rings and playing Marco Polo. So, every day started with a swim. On outings to a beautiful historic site or museum, I always sprinkle in a gelato and visit to a souvenir or book store and let her select a trinket as a reminder of the trip. I usually purchase a trinket for myself as well: a gold charm for my charm bracelet. Each one represents a trip I have taken, or a place that holds meaning to me. The Sibenik buttons are a traditional part of the Croatian national costume. They are intricate and ornate and have become a symbol of the country. I found a stunning button charm to add to my collection.
The Cats of Dubrovnik
The cats of Dubrovnik were plentiful and our daughter wanted to save every last one. With each we encountered, tears streamed down her face for the poor orphaned felines. She could not go on unless I agreed to bring them back to London with us. While in a pottery shop, the shopkeeper announced that the cat curled in a ball by the front door was homeless and I glared at her as tears started to well up in my daughter’s eyes. The woman quickly corrected herself and let it be known that all the shopkeepers took care of him and he was well fed. As we passed a church, 14 cats lay just out of reach behind the gate, basking in the sun and I thought we would never leave that place. My daughter named them all and I took photos of her with her new friends to keep as a reminder. Such is the lovely, intense and quixotic mind of a 9 year old.
Island Bound
The island of Lokrum is a 40-minute boat ride from Dubrovnik and we headed there for a day of snorkeling and sun. Straight off the boat we turned a corner, put our bag down and jumped into the Adriatic. The fish greeted us and we swam and played in the clear, blue water for an hour or two before drying off and setting out to explore the island. Lokrum is a lush, island nature and forest vegetation reserve. People are not allowed to stay overnight; dogs, smoking, fire and anything that might endanger the natural and cultural goods on the island are prohibited. It is believed to have been inhabited since pre-historic times, and settled by Benedictine monks in 915 A.D. The monastery still stands, complete with the iron throne from GOT, which we sat in, of course.
In our short visit, we felt we had experienced the essence of Croatia: the ancient city and fascinating history, the lush vegetation, the spectacular coastline and the rich, flavorful seafood, which we ate for every meal. It is a magical place. We returned refreshed and relaxed and late that night I caught my husband watching a real estate show on buying vacation property in Croatia, (which he does whenever he falls in love with a place). We will be back.
Diana Maclean
Really enjoyed reading your Croatian Vacation Blog. What a beautiful place. Snorkeling in the Adriatic WOW Hug
Ariane Trimuschat
Thanks, Diana! It’s such a beautiful place.
Al & A Wagner
Another wonderful blog! So glad that we cold enjoy Dubrovnik at least virtually. Thanks, Ariane.
Ariane Trimuschat
Thank you! Glad you enjoyed it.
Nancy
Wow – sounds heavenly Ariane! Still can’t get on a plane – too nervous!!! I’ll live vicariously through you for now 🙂
xoxo,
Nancy
Al Wagner
This is a great blog post. Thoughtful and well written with pictures that compliment the text. I know people who rave about Dubrovnik but your blog is the closest I have so far been to being there.
Ariane Trimuschat
Thank you! What a nice compliment. I hope you can visit soon.
liv
This blog post is…
WOW i cant wait for the next!
Katherine Jacobus
Wow .. such a beautiful place! Thanks for sharing … it’s now on the bucket list!! 🙏❤️
Ariane Trimuschat
Thanks! It is so worth the trip.
Margan
I was supposed to go to Croatia for our honeymoon, and hope to go when we can travel again. It was lovely and inspiring to read about your trip. Thanks for sharing.